I have to admit something. The first time our head chef wanted to put mushroom ice cream on the tasting menu, I didn't feel like trying it. Ice cream is supposed to be sweet and familiar. Mushrooms belong in a sauce. I tried it anyway, and I was wrong.
My name is Jana Bergmann, and I’m the general manager at Allmuen Bistro on Torgallmenningen in Bergen. That spoon says a lot about what we’re trying to achieve with our tasting menu. Here, I’ll explain what a tasting menu is, how we prepare it, and how you can get the most out of it.
What is a tasting menu?
A tasting menu is a menu where the kitchen selects the dishes for you. You agree to a set number of courses and a fixed price, and the chefs serve what they think is best that evening. At some places, there are twenty small courses served over four hours. At our restaurant, there are five courses, featuring the best that Western Norway has to offer right now.
Åpen Mat: the tasting menu at Allmuen
Our tasting menu is called “Åpen Mat,” a five-course tasting menu in downtown Bergen. It has been on the menu since we opened in 2016. You leave the dinner up to the kitchen, and we’ll put it together using the ingredients we’re most excited about right now.
Some of the dishes are fresh and tangy and whet your appetite. Others have depth and a light smokiness from the charcoal grill. Throughout the meal, you’ll enjoy vegetables with character, as well as seafood or meat from producers we know and trust. The charcoal grill and fermentation are our most important tools. The grill provides heat and smoke. Fermentation adds acidity, aroma, and complexity.
In short: Western Norway on your plate, with an eye toward the rest of the world.
Why We Don't Publish the Menu in Advance
That's the question we get asked most often. The answer is simple: we don't know in advance. We shop for ingredients every day and let whatever is at its best determine what we make.
It also makes it easier to use the entire cut of meat. With a set menu, the same dishes have to be ready every night, no matter what comes in. With a tasting menu, the kitchen can use whatever is available. We dry-age the steak ourselves, and the trimmings go into the sauce. That reduces waste, which is good for both the price and our conscience.
Where the raw materials come from
We visit the farms we do business with, and new producers must undergo a tasting process before they become regular suppliers. Among them are:
Lamb from Old Norse Spælsau sheep at Tunagarden in Ulvik
Cattle from Larsastova in Folkedal and Selheim Farm in Voss
Wild-caught seafood with the catch date provided by Lerøy Alfheim
Vegetables from Toppe Gartneri
What's the point of a tasting menu?
Many people think of the tasting menu as the chef’s artistic expression. I disagree somewhat. While creativity in the kitchen is central to what we do, the menu must work for the diner. A dish that’s exciting to make but not particularly good to eat has no place on the menu.
At the same time, I don't want us to serve up the same old, safe, familiar dishes all the time. That would be boring—for us and for you.
To me, a good tasting menu is a complete experience that surprises you and makes you happy. It tells a story about the season, the ingredients, and the people who grew, caught, and prepared them. The kitchen is given the freedom to be creative, but never at the expense of flavor.
Mushroom Ice Cream: When the Unknown Tastes Best
Back to the ice. It was fall, mushroom season, and the idea was firmly rooted in what we stand for. Still, I felt resistance right away. It’s a pretty human reaction. We approach the unknown with skepticism, and I think many guests have exactly the same reservations when they read a menu.
I had to set aside my skepticism and try it before I made up my mind. The ice cream was creative, and it was simply delicious. It made me think differently about what a dessert can be.
As the general manager, I find it helpful to experience that skepticism myself. It reminds me of what it feels like to sit on the other side of the table and read about a combination I’ve never tried. Our job is to make you feel secure enough to be curious. We hope the food takes care of the rest.
Here's How We Develop the Tasting Menu
The guests see five courses. They rarely see everything that's going on before the first plate is served.
The head chef sets the tone
It all starts in the kitchen. Executive Chef Tobias Stavang Gaarden and his team work with ingredients, flavors, techniques, and new ideas, and then Tobias presents the menu to us. I want the chefs to have the freedom to experiment and create dishes they truly believe in. Their expertise and creativity are the very foundation of Allmuen. My job is not to hold them back, but to provide the best possible conditions.
The questions we ask when we try a new menu
When a new menu is presented, we sit down together. We taste the food and ask:
How do the dishes work together?
Is there a balance between acidity, sweetness, saltiness, texture, and body?
Does the menu have a natural progression from start to finish?
Does each dish have its own identity, while still fitting into the whole?
It's not enough for a dish to just taste good. We want to understand why it works and what it brings to the menu.
The kitchen, dining room, and management work together
We each bring different areas of expertise to the table. The kitchen is responsible for the craftsmanship, knowledge of ingredients, and creative vision. The restaurant manager views the menu from the dining room’s perspective: how the dishes are presented and explained at the table, and which drinks complement them best. I look at the big picture—the guest experience and whether the menu stays true to Allmuen. And yes, I also keep an eye on the finances. We have to break even so we can continue to create food we’re proud of.
Sometimes our suggestions are specific. Other times, we simply ask a question that helps the kitchen staff see the dish from a new perspective. It’s in that exchange that I think the most interesting things happen.
How to Get the Most Out of the Tasting Menu
You don't have to be a food or wine connoisseur to enjoy a tasting menu. But a few tips can make the evening even better.
Come with an open mind
The most important thing is to keep an open mind. The tasting menu is all about letting the kitchen surprise you with ingredients and combinations you might not have chosen yourself. If something on the menu makes you pause, it might just be the dish you remember best afterward.
Allergies, vegetarian, and vegan: Please let us know in advance
A common misconception is that allergies or special dietary needs make it difficult to enjoy the menu. That’s not the case here. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are always on the menu, and we go out of our way to accommodate your needs. All we need is for you to let us know when you make your reservation, or to contact us about any allergies before you arrive. That way, the kitchen can plan ahead and ensure you have an experience just as enjoyable as the rest of your table.
Set aside about two and a half hours
A five-course meal takes time, and that's part of the appeal. Each course is prepared just before it's served, not beforehand. If you want to have time for something else afterward, it's a good idea to make a reservation early in the evening.
Wine Pairings and Non-Alcoholic Options for Each Course
I highly recommend the wine pairings. Our sommeliers curate them for each evening, and our wine list was awarded a Silver Star in the Star Wine List of the Year Norway 2025. When the flavors in your glass and on your plate complement each other, a dish can become something entirely different. If you don’t drink alcohol, we have non-alcoholic alternatives crafted with the same care.
When à la carte is a better choice
If you're short on time and want to eat a little faster, à la carte is a good choice. You'll get the same high-quality ingredients and the same seasonal dishes, just at a different pace.
Reserve a table at " Åpen Mat " in Bergen
We aren't creative just to surprise you. We're creative because we believe that high-quality ingredients, excellent craftsmanship, and a little courage to think differently can give you a meal you didn't know you wanted.
So come hungry, come curious, and give yourself time to enjoy it. And when the ice cream arrives at the table and you're unsure: take that first spoonful.
You can find us at Valkendorfsgaten 1B, near Torgallmenningen in downtown Bergen. Reserve a table at Åpen Mat here.